Post by: Gregg on September 07, 2006, 08:44:36 PM
If it's time for another new monitor, I don't know the terminology well enough to order a new one that will be compatible with my beige G3. I do know that I don't have a USB port, if that's important.
Post by: gunug on September 07, 2006, 09:04:47 PM
This is a picture of two flyback transformers with focus and level adjustments on the side (the nubs on the sides are plastic screws or adjustments and generally are labeled on the side as focus and level). Once you're to the point you can see these you need to use a plastic (non-conductive) screwdriver to make your adjustments!
Post by: Paddy on September 07, 2006, 10:09:08 PM
Local is probably the best bet, since CRT monitors are heavy and expensive to ship.
Craigslist?
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/sys/202041127.html
I've also bought a few monitors off eBay with good success; one that was shipped from CA and the other I picked up from the seller in Boston.
Post by: sandbox on September 07, 2006, 11:29:36 PM
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5056743
with speakers.
Item Description
A reliable 17" monitor that gets the job done right. This Compaq monitor delivers the best in image quality, and boasts an attractive design in a flat-screen format.
* Tube Type: Color, flat-faced, shadow-mask, multi-frequency CRT
* Picture Tube Size: 17.0 inches (43.2 cm)
* Viewable Area (Diagonal): 16-inch (40.6 cm)
* Trio Dot Pitch: 0.25 to 0.28 mm
* Maximum Resolution: 1280 x 1024 @ 60 Hz
* Recommended: 1024 x 768 @ 85 Hz this is important
* Preset Graphic Modes:1280 x 1024 @ 60 Hz, 1024 x 768 @ 85 Hz and 75 Hz, 800 x 600 @ 85 Hz and 75 Hz,720 x 400 @ 70 Hz, 640 x 480 @ 85 Hz, 75 Hz and 60 Hz
* Horizontal Frequency: 30 to 70 kHz
* Vertical Frequency: 50 to 160 Hz
* Anti-Glare/Anti-Static: Yes good
* Signal Cable Length Input Voltage: 100 to 240V AC, 50 3Hz and 60 3Hz
* Built-in Power Supply: Yes. Universal
* Maximum Power Rating: 75 Watts
* Energy Mode: < 4 watts
* Tilt Range: 5 down; 15 up
* Swivel Range: 45 left; 45 right a plus
* Monitor Color: Carbonite black & silver
* Speakers Type: USB powered speakers a plus
amazon has a good new/used selelction.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_pc/104-7...o.y=8&Go=Go
The adaptor your using with your Dell now will work on any CRT monitor.
Post by: jepinto on September 08, 2006, 05:16:36 AM
Having said that, my symptoms were banding and fuzziness. The last monitor that went just fuzzy was the monitor, on a friend's 4 year old Dell.
Post by: Gregg on September 08, 2006, 07:40:15 AM
I think the video card (ATI) is fine. I have a VCR connected to the computer, and the TV signal, coming through the ATI card, is still sharp.
I might try to have someone else adjust the focus, if that can reasonably be expected to extend the life of the monitor. I just don't want to spend money on it if it is ready for the junk pile.
I suppose I could remove the adapter that plugs into the monitor and take that with me to BestBuy or WalMart to make sure I get a CRT monitor that I can plug in. Good idea! Thanks. You're welcome.
What an inspiring site this is!
Post by: Gregg on September 08, 2006, 12:15:41 PM
Post by: gunug on September 08, 2006, 02:17:20 PM
) but I don't imagine an experienced television guy would see anything all that strange in a CRT computer monitor (well there is a digital controller board but he doesn't need to go near that). I guess I should keep my mouth shut because most people are concerned about the high voltage.
Post by: Xairbusdriver on September 08, 2006, 06:49:19 PM
QUOTE
I guess I should keep my mouth shut because most people are concerned about the high voltage.
Only ones not concerned are no longer with us...
But I agree with your expectations of what's inside the "Dell" monitor. Since I don't think "Dell" makes any of the parts for its merchandise, I'd expect their monitors to be exactly like most of them ( unless they were able to cut a deal for cheaper parts that others would demand ). As far as I know, every CRT monitor must have these controls because they must each be set at the factory. CRTs are not like digital hardware, the CRT itself is always slightly different than the next, so they must all be 'tweaked' a little before they leave the building. Why it would suddenly become 'fuzzy' makes me suspect that a cap or resistor some where in the circuit may have failed. You may be able to compensate for that with the adjustment pot, but there are limits to how much and how fine the adjustment can be. But it is certainly worth checking with a knowledgeable tech/serviceman; shouldn't take but a second, once the case is removed.
BTW, getting a flat screen CRT monitor/TV will be quite a bit heavier than the old kind ( a 17 incher should still be 'luggable', of course ). The front 'flat screen' is probably three times as thick as the old rounded kind. That is because the glass must be strong enough to withstand the pressure by shear strength instead of the added benefit of the old curved glass ( remember, there is a fairly healthy vacuum inside that CRT ). It's actually one of the reasons that chicken ( and most other ) eggs are not square, the curved shape helps make the rather thin shell possible ( even though there is usually not a vacuum in there ).
The other major reason for rounded eggs is so they'll fit in those egg cartons...
Post by: Gregg on September 09, 2006, 10:58:10 AM
Jim, did you ever try to break a chicken's egg by applying pressure along the long axis? Can't be done. If you slip and apply the pressure in another direction, you'll have messy hands.
Post by: Gary S on September 09, 2006, 11:09:48 AM
QUOTE
There is probably a focus adjustment inside the case and if you're brave enough and careful enough you can adjust it once you open the case! If you don't feel like doing it any "real" television repair guy could do it.
Those adjustment pots are usually on the left side of the case- as your facing the monitor.
Take a flashlight and look through the air vents near the lower left side and see if you can see them.
I adjusted mine and got a very clear picture on my Viewsonic.
Post by: krissel on September 09, 2006, 12:10:07 PM
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/sys/204960579.html
Post by: gunug on September 09, 2006, 08:01:08 PM
Post by: Xairbusdriver on September 09, 2006, 08:47:20 PM
Post by: Gregg on September 09, 2006, 10:24:44 PM
But, asuming I get that far, do you fire it up and adjust away, or do you have to turn 'em one at a time and then fire it up? - a trial and error method
I'm also not one for buying used equipment, cars, etc. If I end up buying a monitor, it will be new.
Post by: Paddy on September 09, 2006, 11:17:59 PM
If you want new, there's a very highly rated 22" Viewsonic on eBay right now - NIB. With shipping, it's about $118 at the moment - 2 days to go.
Others to consider - Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070 and LaCie Electron Blue (my monitor is a 22" Electron Blue and it's wonderful) Viewsonic P220f
Post by: gunug on September 10, 2006, 12:14:02 AM
This webpage is all about the safe way to make adjustments:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_monfaq3.html#MONFAQ_012
On the subject of electronic adjustment and repair (standing on my soapbox): about the time I was in my mid 20's I had never been inside of a computer let alone a monitor. I was living in the same town as my grandfather and he had never had anything (car, aircraft, radio, television) that he hadn't taken apart. He taught me respect for things inside the radio and television because there are high voltages inside. But once I'd started doing things in there I was hooked; everytime I could actually fix a thing, actually make it better, I felt wonderful. A honest feeling of power and accomplishment. I don't think everyone is like me to the degree that you would take up my way of making a living; but I do think everyone is capable of learning how to fix "something" and feeling that feeling. (I trip as I climb down from the soapbox). Say goodnight John!
Post by: Gregg on September 10, 2006, 03:59:49 PM
Paddy, eBay is another thing I don't do. I know, I'm a fuddy duddy. My first 17" monitor was a Mitsu Diamond Pro. It worked well for several years, then got "the shakes". This Dell was a no cost replacement. Never used, it was sitting in a box at work. There might be more, but since I am in the process of changing jobs, I'm not asking again. I got about 1 year out of it. I posted here about hooking it up because somthing I read mentioned drivers - not needed with a Mac, I learned.
A local electronics chain has a storewide sale starting on Thursday. If I haven't found a place to fix this thing, or gotten up the nerve to try to open it up, I'll get the best thing they have on the shelf. I want it to last for two years, at which time I'll replace everything - unless something else goes bad on me sooner.
Post by: gunug on September 11, 2006, 01:06:41 PM
Post by: Gary S on September 11, 2006, 01:18:57 PM
Post by: Gregg on September 11, 2006, 08:24:50 PM
Now, a tech at Best Buy (scrapping the bottom of the barrel, I know) said switch out the cable and see if that helps. Well, I looked at the back of the monitor, and I'm not sure the cable plugs in or if it is hard wired. I guess I could ask the IT guy at work.
Post by: Xairbusdriver on September 11, 2006, 10:19:49 PM
QUOTE
I might check your link.
Please, do NOT open the case until AFTER reading that info. It can be done safely, but it is not for beginners or those prone to be sloppy in their habits. I suspect the 'pots' are there, somewhere, probably next to each other, but possibly not where we think they should be. So, it's safer to let a repairman test his skills and leave the driving to them. I most stick to fixing mechanical things that only need parts replacements. I still remember connecting 220 volts to the wiring my Dad and I had installed in a garage/office we'd built. Fortunately only a very nice tube radio went up in smoke! 
Of course, I was grounded for several weeks!
Post by: Gregg on September 12, 2006, 07:30:18 AM
Post by: gunug on September 12, 2006, 08:05:18 AM
I feel like I'm trying to talk you into doing something you don't want to do and that is "really" what I don't want to do! Leave it alone and buy another one. I'm sure that if my father were still alive (and he wasn't a technical sort although he was a meteorologist and a real user of technology) I could have personally showed him how to do this and would've felt he was safe. But you and I are not in the same location and that could be the key here. The link I sent you is great but there are no illustrations which I feel is key to understanding what to do. I think I'm going to look for a (probably DVD based) video on this subject that I can recommend.
I'm going to try to limit myself on this subject from now on; if anyone thinks I'm getting too pushy then tell me!
Post by: Xairbusdriver on September 12, 2006, 09:32:37 AM
Nor do I think he is being 'pushy' and I know he is also concerned about your health! That's why he gave you that link. It's important to know what you're doing around high voltages. It's somewhat similar to flying, you usually only get to make one major mistake!
Post by: Gregg on September 12, 2006, 12:22:31 PM
Post by: Gregg on September 15, 2006, 08:33:15 PM
Less than $100 U.S. before sales tax.
The image is much clearer.
Not a big deal, but...
(see, you don't need that candle to start a fire)
Post by: gunug on September 15, 2006, 09:26:40 PM