Post by: kimmer on August 26, 2014, 11:00:23 PM
this drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822236625
into
this enclosure: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817392039
Is there a video somewhere that I can watch?
Post by: gunug on August 27, 2014, 08:10:02 AM
http://www.vantecusa.com/system/applicatio...10s3_manual.pdf
I will say that I've had certain drives that wouldn't line up correctly or that bulged in some way that made them hard to get into a case!
Post by: Paddy on August 27, 2014, 03:03:18 PM
Post by: Xairbusdriver on August 27, 2014, 03:48:48 PM
You did take the drive out of the bag, right?
QUOTE
Make sure you don't have the caddy upside down
That's also a very important tip for using a screwdriver!!! 
Also, make sure you're using a right-handed screwdriver! 
You're welcome!
Looks like they include only six screws with the enclosure? The PDF image doesn't state the sizes or thread pitches.
It looks like there should be two that are longer with wider tread pitch; those would probably keep the back/plug end attached to the aluminum body. They were probably already attaching the two pieces together when it arrived. Just be sure to keep those two screws together and safe. They will be the last screws you'll be using.
If there are more than four other screws, it is important to get them grouped together before attempting to attach the drive to the caddy. I think there are usually only six standard locations for the mounting holes in any drive, regardless of size. The caddy may not have holes drilled for all six or it might even have more than six! The only trick is to find the holes in the caddy that line up with four holes in the drive.
Since it appears that the drive plugs directly into the connector fixed to the caddy, it will be pretty hard to connect it incorrectly.
However, it may be difficult to see the holes on the drive through the holes in the caddy. A good, focused light will help, but it may suffice to simply get one screw started into the drive but leave it loose until you get the other three also started.If worse comes to worse, you can actually enlarge or possibly drill new holes in the caddy. The screws connecting the drive are purely for mechanical security, not data transfer or power.
If you still have trouble, just ship everything to me and I'll use some duct tape to hold things together until the glue dries. :thumnbup: I'll even pay the return shipping fee as soon as I can find the current Pony Express rates.
Post by: Paddy on August 27, 2014, 05:51:30 PM
QUOTE(Xairbusdriver @ Aug 27 2014, 04:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Since it appears that the drive plugs directly into the connector fixed to the caddy, it will be pretty hard to connect it incorrectly. However, it may be difficult to see the holes on the drive through the holes in the caddy. A good, focused light will help, but it may suffice to simply get one screw started into the drive but leave it loose until you get the other three also started.
If worse comes to worse, you can actually enlarge or possibly drill new holes in the caddy. The screws connecting the drive are purely for mechanical security, not data transfer or power.
However, it may be difficult to see the holes on the drive through the holes in the caddy. A good, focused light will help, but it may suffice to simply get one screw started into the drive but leave it loose until you get the other three also started.If worse comes to worse, you can actually enlarge or possibly drill new holes in the caddy. The screws connecting the drive are purely for mechanical security, not data transfer or power.
Think you're over-thinking this, Jim. There are no problems attaching the screws to the caddy - the holes are easy to line up and easy to see. As I noted, the only tricky bit can be getting the caddy on the rails properly. If it doesn't slide in fairly easily, then you've got it lined up wrong - back up and start again.
(This is NOT an uncommon issue with drive enclosures - usually they're very tight, and they fit together just so)
Post by: kimmer on August 27, 2014, 11:57:32 PM
We'll tackle it tomorrow.
Post by: Xairbusdriver on August 28, 2014, 10:00:56 AM
The second one is never to be uttered audibly in the wife's presence: "Lefty, loosey. Righty, tighty."
Post by: kimmer on August 29, 2014, 10:10:19 AM
Thanks for all the help.
Post by: Xairbusdriver on August 29, 2014, 10:24:33 AM
QUOTE("lacie note")
It is best to not go beyond two devices in a chain in most situations.
Or, you can do it this way: <Macworld Daisy ChainLab Test>
Post by: kimmer on August 29, 2014, 02:29:38 PM
I want to daisy chain (and I'll pass on that big daisy chain! LOL) as they came with a USB 3 to USB 2 cable, and in order to run both drives I had to unplug my USB 2 hub. So now I can't plug in my Kindle, camera, iPods, etc. :-/ I figure with a USB 3 to USB 3 cord, I can daisy chain my external drives
[attachment=3052:ports.jpg]
Number 4 is where my USB 2 hub was plugged in (and the old drives used that FW port). Now it has my TM external, and in order to set up and run SuperDuper, I'll swap them back and forth. If I need my USB 2 hub, I'll have to unplug the drive. So what would y'all recommend so that I don't have to do all this plug/unplug and can keep my USB 2 hub?
Post by: Paddy on August 29, 2014, 05:16:23 PM
)http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281598-3...e-power-adapter
Typical Power Consumption
Solid State Drive SSD - 0.6 to 2.8 W
2.5" Hard Disk Drive HDD - 0.7 to 3 W
3.5" Hard Disk Drive HDD - 6.5 to 9 W (see below - this figure is actually low...)
And:
2TB Western Digital Caviar Black (WD2001FASS)
Startup Current +12V: 1.16 Amps
Startup Current +5V: 0.60 Amps
Read/Write: 10.70 Watts
Idle: 8.20 Watts
Standby: 1.30 Watts
Sleep: 1.30 Watts
The power output from USB 3.0 is typically up to .9 amps or 900 milliamps. As you can see the startup current required by the WD drive above is 1.16 Amps, which exceeds the power available. THAT is why you don't have 3.5" drives powered off USB. And USB 2.0 only goes up to .5 Amps (500 mA) so it's even less able to power a big drive.
Portable drives are a different matter - the USB 3.0 2.5" drives have no difficulty running off one USB 3.0 cable plugged into one USB 3.0 port. Some older 2.5" USB 2.0 drives had those annoying Y cables that used up all your USB ports, because one port didn't supply enough juice. I won't buy drive enclosures like that!
Post by: Xairbusdriver on August 29, 2014, 06:15:43 PM
Post by: kimmer on August 29, 2014, 08:48:27 PM
Also, can I daisy chain them if I get a USB 3 to USB 3 cord? That way I can plug one of them into a USB 2 port, and not have to have both of them in separate USB 2 slots.
Best news of the day -- I don't need that bluetooth insert! Apparently Apple's cute little wireless mouse doesn't require it, or perhaps my iMac has bluetooth already installed? The bluetooth gadget that was plugged into a USB port came with my old Kensington mouse. So if the drives can be daisy-chained, then I can plug my USB hub back in and use it for cameras, iPods, and Kindles.
And now, time to go read as I've unmounted and shut off the TM drive, set up the SuperDuper drive and it's doing it's first full backup. I figure it'll be down sometime tomorrow.
Post by: Xairbusdriver on August 29, 2014, 11:12:15 PM
If you connect a USB3 device into a USB2 port, it will only operate at USB2 speeds. I haven't looked up your iMac so I assume (dangerous, I know) that you don't have any USB3 ports on it? Like many ports, they are backwards compatible only; USB3 can be connected to both a USB1 and a USB2 port, it will just operate at the lessor speed. Same for a USB2 device; it can connect to both a USB1 or a USB2 port, it will then operate at the slowest connection.
[rantings]In my opinion, USB was designed for connecting low powered and fairly slow speed devices; keyboards, mice, WiFi dongles, etc. When FireWire 400 blew past it in speed and power capabilities, USB2 appeared, it was still not as fast or powerful but it was much cheaper. And it still relied on the computer CPU for control, further slowing down all other computer operations. Now we have USB3. Almost approaches FireWire 800 speeds but still using the CPU. However, with multi-core CPUs and threaded processing, and much lower costs, it's a no-brainier for most of us.
And then there is Thunderbolt... only advantage is that it's designed/lisenced by Intel which may have enough clout to see it be developed and mass produced to lower its costs. It may happen, USB is like trying to get FIOS speeds while using copper wires. Fortunately, very few of us really need ultra high speed 'pipes' for writing emails or even Facecrook!
[/rantings]